"XXXX Coffee Chums"

TINS, BINS,& MORE!

TINS

Tin chronology reflects the evolution of both content and preservation. Content, in general, evolved from raw beans to roasted beans, to ground beans, and finally grounding as related to after market coffee makers (boiling, perculators, drip, fine, medium, regular, glass pot, pulverized. etc.). Attempts at preservation started with coating (roasted) beans with an emulsion to seal in freshness, to containers with narrow opening (and screw tops) to wider openings, top-wide slip lids, pry lids, and finally key-wind lids. Parallel to these developments was a shift from bulk distribution to vendors to one-pound containers designed for consumer needs. Today’s most common container is a one-pound tin (or flexible package) hermetically sealed with a thin film. (Glass jars with screw tops were a temporary substitute, first used to follow the “Mason Jar”, and later used again during a shortage of tin during World War II.) Over the years McLaughlin’s issued more than fifty brand names, the two most recognized being “XXXX” and “Manor House”.

“XXXX” is actually an exception to all else that follows since it was only distributed in a one-pound paper “brick” and later in a vending machine paper bag. In this form it existed from circa1860 to 1920+. (Another brick was “Hiawa”, circa 1905.) Bulk containers included
burlap sacks, crates, and barrels of various weights. But here we shall deal with the store “cans” that best reflect both company evolution and the wide variety of brand labels. The labels, especially, evoke images of exotic foreign species, famous events or personalities of the times, or images of consumer satisfaction.

The earliest tins (and bins) were paint-coated (some actually embossed), followed by lithograph imprint, often simulating some sort of attractive texture, and later brightly embrazed with images and symbols to attract buyer attention. Over the years the back side of the container would carry progressive instructions as to the preservation qualities of the container, how to open the container, and/or how best to prepare its contents. The earliest shapes were “milk pails”, so called for their wide body, narrow tops, and (initially) with carrying handles. These were followed by “buckets” with slip tops to their rims, and also, often with handles. But by 1900 cans had made a universal transition to the smaller size of container—just one or two pounds, reflecting the shift from bulk sales to store shelf distribution. The earliest McLaughlin containers will usually reference “roasted” since that was its competitive distinction. About 1900 they will boast of “steel cut”, refering to the new state of pre-grinding the bean and selling coffee in the state of both roasted and ground —which was to become the industry standard we know today.

Coding may help determine a can’s age. Earliest tins may bear a can maker’s name unknown in today’s market. Early McLaughlin products may show an address on South Water Street, expanding from just 58&60 to finally include to 96 S. Water Street in 1897.
American Can Company (CanCo) was created in 1901, Continental Can Company in 1904. In1906 The Food and Drug Administration initially required certain label identification related to licensing. In 1919 McLaughlin’s moved to 610 North La Salle Street, remaining there until its demise in 1967 (thereafter “Kraft” Manor House). Use of tin for coffee cans was prohibited in 1942 due to World War II. 1942 saw the introduction of 2-digit postal delivery zones, changed in 1963 to a 5-digit “Zip” code. Do not fret about symbols and two- or three-character codes. These refer to the actual plant doing the production run and are untraceable today since they refer to can company contracts (not production dates) and contract records were retained for only a few short years.

BINS

The history of bins is easier to trace and date than is the case with tins. In general, there were but two types of bins: large floor bins and smaller bins for placement on counter tops. Earliest shapes included bins with slant top openings and bins with roll top openings.
(The latter often called “bonnet top”). Latter bins were just cube-shaped for convenience in stacking, with the exception of hosizontal boxes with one, two, or three glass windows in front. A great paradox here, since the windowed bins are almost universally associated with the “Kept-Fresh” brand name. However, the “Kept-Fresh” name introduced a new ground coffee distributed in hermatically sealed cans and so advertised for its ability to keep the contents truly fresh. At the same time, the Kept-Fresh bins offered whole bean roasted coffee, and the bins offered no serious preservation of freshness. And when the “XXXX” brand was discontinued, Kept-Fresh remained on the market as the only McLaughlin coffee still offered in bean form. Whole beans retained their flavor longer than did ground beans and so the Kept-Fresh bins continued some store presence well into World War II.

Bins remained the property of the company and a deposit refund was offered when five or more were returned to the factory at one time. It is rumored that when the lot behind
610-620 N. La Salle Street was paved over (early 1920’s) that hundreds of old bins were smashed and used as land fill prior to applying the asphalt. A real pity, if true, since the metal bins were beautifully lithgraphed and are highly valued today by interior designers. Heavy cardboard cubes were the fashion from early 1900 onward with an abundance of advertising printed on all sides. They were not returnable, making them a rare find today
(but totally lacking in charm).

AND MORE...

A huge advantage for the McLaughlin plant was its location in Chicago. It’s first truly proprietory location was on South Water Street. A location on the south side of the Chicago River. A plant was opened at 58 - 60 South Water St. in 1870 - just in time to be consumed by The Great Chicago Fire of 1871. Another plant was built the next year at 82 - 84 S. Water and would ultimately expand to 96 S. Water in1897. The river frontage allowed for water transportation to their door. The Chicago River connected to the Mississippi River via the Illinois Canal in 1848. By 1860 a full dozen railroads arrived at Chicago from the east. In 1869 the Transcontinental connection was opened to California. McLaughlin’s stood astride the trade route east to west and had shipped coffee to the mostly Irish railroad construction crews as early as 1864. Favorable freight rates to the west fortified profit potential. It was blend. roast, and ship as far and as fast as possible. From 1870 to 1920 the entire west would be homesteaded from the Mississippi River to California and the railroads would open the way.

The burlap sacks used on ships did not hold up well on rough railroads, so principal shipping was by crate, barrel, or large containers holding multiple pre-filled bins. (John Arbuckle prompted the western railroads to demand the use of only wooden crates since he shipped only one-pound “bricks” of his “Ariosa” coffee, a collusion that held up until the federal court struck down this restriction in 1914.) In general, the coffee container reflected the transformation of product from bulk to one-pound units, and from short store life to a reasonable state of preservation. Distribution now is usually as part of a larger food product line, brand loyalty is fragile, and store-vendor relationships range from competitive to wholly controled. “Coffee men” have been replaced by scientific measurement and advertising experts. Containers have reached a utility vs. economy plateau and the problems of preservation solved.

Thanks to finders for this acquisition.
Dave and Dagny Hanrahan
Delmar, Iowa

XXXX Coffee HOME GRINDER

The McLaughlin Company introduced XXXX Coffee's bright red "brick" in 1882. It pioneered both factory roasted coffee and the one-pound paper package. In 1907 it was reintroduced (Your Old Friend in a New Blend) being both pre-roasted and factory-ground. It was a fully-processed product requiring just water added and "cooking' prior to drinking. Consumers, however, were yet to be convinced that factory-ground coffee would be as good as home ground. The answer was a grinder of one-pound capacity, available either in the store or suitable for the home. Enter the XXXX wall-mounted grinder. Similar units became available from other companies as well, usually with a receptical for the freshly ground coffee in the form of a glass "catch cup". The concept of selling roasted beans in bulk and grinding them at point-of-purchase quickly became so popular it soon established the new standard of the day. Introduced with the company grinder was a one-pound paper bag in the bright red and yellow of "XXXX Coffee". (It would survive as a leading company brand until just prior to World War II.)

The grinder illustrated was custom-produced as a limited experiment, with an adjustible mount that allowed it to fill either a 4 inch catch cup or the taller paper bag. The popularity of store-ground roasted coffee inspired grocers to quickly add large commercial grinders in-house. But by circa 1920 freshness (shelf life) had been so improved by use of new, glass or "tin" containers that coffee so packaged directly from the manufacturer became the modern norm, largely surpassing the demand for fresh grinding (albeit that such grinding remains an attractive option still today). However, nothing is so commerative of past coffee consumption as is the lap-top and/or wall-mounted grinders of the early nineteen hundreds.

We hope you enjoy the tasty sampling of McLaughlin’s Coffee Company’s memorabila you will find on this web site. And be sure to look for the highly detailed series of books coming soon that are written by the company’s founders grandson William F. McLaughlin. If you have any interesting information about the company or anecdotes you would like included in the books please contact Bill at:
wfmcl@embarqmail.com